Why would a pvp enthusiast play eso in the first place? Why would they stay?
The bigger question is why any pvp main stays.
To be clear, I am talking gameplay. I know a lot of alliance loyalists who just enjoy the zone chat culture and hanging out with familiar faces.
Other players enjoy grouping with their friends in different kind of groups.
But at technical and gameplay levels, it's objectively bad. I think there are players who are seduced by the power fantasy derived from pugstomping pve casuals who are there to grind end of campaign transmutes on all of their alts without pvp builds. I don't consider them real pvp players though, because in my experience playing online pvp games for almost 30 years, true pvp players get bored by that kind of thing and will quit because of it.
And then on top of the technical and gameplay issues, there's the fact it's gated behind one of the most casual pve mmos ever made. Why would a pvp enthusiast bother?
(This sort of thing--where a skyshard is placed in plain view in a deceptively close location but is actually only accessible via a long detour--is very common in this game, and the OP should not have been surprised to see this.)