Overland Cyrodiil is the most fun, because for a player like me who's not great at pvp'ing, I can at least help my alliance by playing strategically for the map, scouting, sieging, etc., so I enjoy that the most. If I were better I'd probably like IC as well, there's an element of suspense there, and being able to move through areas fast, while dealing with the PvE mobs as well that I find very interesting too. I also like battlegrounds, but as a solo player, playing against premades, or instances were everyone treats the mode as a deathmatch is kind of frustrating, though in a group they can be really enjoyable as well.
Jokes aside, Cyro mostly, but only because I did too many BGs trying to create/learn my build, and I now get matched against very strong players that wreck me very fast
I've been really enjoying Cyro now that it's a bit more playable (at least on my end). I like that you can find a little bit of everything there. From 1x1s to large scale siege, all in one area, which I think is cool. It has its problems of course, but it's been fun now that some of the population has returned.
I used to play BGs quite a bit, and still enjoy them every once in a while, but they can be pretty hit and miss. Teams mixed of only Objective and DM only players only results in players blaming eachother for why things are chaotic, along with the re-emergence resource block/healer builds seems to have just sucked the fun out of them for me. I also don't like playing them during the launch of an DLC, because whatever new OP items have been released, they are greatly felt and used in an abundance in BGs with players trying them out. However, dealing with imbalances in BGs is what made a better PvP player in general.
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I hate cyrodiil and battlegrounds the way they are right now but unfortunately that's the only way to get any pvp in so I play there, but I much prefer imperial city when it's not dead. I feel different instances allowed IC to not fall into the lag trap of cyrodiil, so it feels fresh.
Too bad there's no one to fight outside the IC and midyear mayhem event so you're forced into cyrodiil anyways.