When it comes to the original racial motifs with 1-4 variations, the determining factor is the level of the items you are crafting. So if you're making something for a brand new character with the lowest tier of materials, it will have the look of the first variation. As you move to the next tier of materials, your crafts will have the look of the second variation, etc. If you want the look of a style that doesn't match the level of your craft, you'll need to use the outfitting system. But the good news is that you aren't missing anything.