Also, on a slightly related note, painting white over a black undercoat is a pain in the arse and generally requires many, many layers of white to get even coverage and prevent it from just looking dirty instead of white.
I wasn't actually talking about painting walls, the kind of stuff I paint is stuff like this:Also, on a slightly related note, painting white over a black undercoat is a pain in the arse and generally requires many, many layers of white to get even coverage and prevent it from just looking dirty instead of white.
An old painter taught me a trick. If you have a black wall to paint white, put a gray coat on first, then use white. If you have a Red wall to paint white, put a black coat on first, then gray, then a white coat. You can put 10 layers of white on red and it will still bleed through.

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Caius Drusus Imperial DK (DC) Bragg Ironhand Orc Temp (DC) Neesha Stalks-Shadows Argonian NB (EP) Falidir Altmer Sorcr (AD) J'zharka Khajiit NB (AD) |
Isabeau Runeseer Breton Sorc (DC) Fevassa Dunmer DK (EP) Manut Redguard Temp (AD) Tylera the Summoner Altmer Sorc (EP) Svari Snake-Blood Nord DK (AD) |
Ashlyn D'Elyse Breton NB (EP) Filindria Bosmer Temp (DC) Vigbjorn the Wanderer Nord Warden (EP) Hrokki Winterborn Breton Warden (DC) Basks-in-the-Sunshine Argonian Temp |
I wasn't actually talking about painting walls, the kind of stuff I paint is stuff like this:
But the same techniques apply, and that painter gave you good advice. I usually use a tan coat over the problem colour rather than a gray coat (note: painting red over black is the same problem, and can be achieved with the same technique), but that's because I'm usually going for a little bit of warmth in the final tint.
No! All for me! I get all the stompy-stompy-punchy-punchy-shooty-shooty!I wasn't actually talking about painting walls, the kind of stuff I paint is stuff like this:
But the same techniques apply, and that painter gave you good advice. I usually use a tan coat over the problem colour rather than a gray coat (note: painting red over black is the same problem, and can be achieved with the same technique), but that's because I'm usually going for a little bit of warmth in the final tint.
Pardon me, sir. Can I have one of those to use in IC?
Ty
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Caius Drusus Imperial DK (DC) Bragg Ironhand Orc Temp (DC) Neesha Stalks-Shadows Argonian NB (EP) Falidir Altmer Sorcr (AD) J'zharka Khajiit NB (AD) |
Isabeau Runeseer Breton Sorc (DC) Fevassa Dunmer DK (EP) Manut Redguard Temp (AD) Tylera the Summoner Altmer Sorc (EP) Svari Snake-Blood Nord DK (AD) |
Ashlyn D'Elyse Breton NB (EP) Filindria Bosmer Temp (DC) Vigbjorn the Wanderer Nord Warden (EP) Hrokki Winterborn Breton Warden (DC) Basks-in-the-Sunshine Argonian Temp |
This is true, but to a point. There are some things in the fabric which are "hard colored" and can't be altered.CirithValaria wrote: »There are many good white colors, but it depends on material how it looks.
a.skelton92 wrote: »At OP. Ah you look cool though. Are you wearing part light part heavy? Not sure if thats a sword on your back but you look like a swordmaster from Warhammer Online. If it was light blue/ white with bits of gold It would look awesome.
It's all light, and that's a staff. Thanks for the compliments.Paulington wrote: »May I suggest Julianos White from the Aetherian Archive Completed challenge?
Yes you do need to complete AA however this is relatively easy nowadays. Unfortunately good whites in the game are very limited and the dye system itself is even worse. Take Transliminal Violet for example:
As you can see, on my Daedric chest/Kena shoulder it looks gold yet on my Martial Knowledge trousers it actually is purple!
The easiest way is to just ignore the description and check them all, most look nothing like the swatch.
I actually made a VR1 piece of normal/cheap armour and had someone put julianos on it, it still looked like the pic in the OP.